Visiting Napa and Sonoma Wineries With Children

We've often described the Northern California Wineof each other along Route 12, the main road in the
Country as a 'Disneyland for Adults', but that doesn'tValley. Hint: Bring a soccer ball or a Frisbee. There are
mean you have to leave the children behind. For manysome great lawns in the Valley of the Moon.
people, visiting wineries is only one day of their trip toVisiting Napa with Children
San Francisco. After all, with all of the attractions it hasNapa is a great place to visit because everything is
to offer, the Bay Area is a great destination for theclose together. The whole valley is only thirty miles long
whole family. A daytrip to the scenic counties ofby five miles wide, and while there are other wineries
Sonoma and Napa provides an opportunity to enjoy atucked up in the hills, the variety of wineries that are
relaxed pace with stunning views, wonderful tours andeasy to reach is wonderful. However, it is not as
interesting wineries. The wineries and their gift shopsagriculturally varied as Sonoma. Napa is another half
are admittedly more interesting to the adults than thehour farther from the Golden Gate Bridge, but the ride
kids, but they will still enjoy the trip because it is, afterbrings you through the beautiful Carneros district with
all, farm country, and what kid doesn't enjoy that?its vineyard covered rolling hills that have a distinctly
Sonoma especially takes great pride in their agriculturalTuscan feeling. Napa is closer to San Francisco via the
diversity, so as you travel around you're going to see aless scenic Bay Bridge.
wide variety of plantings, orchards and livestock inNapa has a bit more of a city style than its country
between the vineyards.cousin Sonoma, but there are several places that
We're seeing increasing numbers of children in Winechildren will especially enjoy. Everyone enjoys
Country. While it is still a relatively small number,spectacular architecture and great views, something at
parents are finding ways to make it work. The secretwhich Napa excels. A classic example of this is the
to having a great time together in Sonoma and Napa isArtesa Winery, with its hilltop site overlooking Carneros
to realize that while many wineries are not suitable orand the Bay. Artesa is close to San Francisco and
enjoyable for children, there are many others that are.despite not being built with children in mind, the feeling is
Sonoma and Napa have over seven hundred wineries,relaxed enough and the variety of places to explore
of which about half can be visited easily so there areextensive enough that everyone in the family will be
plenty to choose from, as well as many other familycharmed. They even have an elevator for those with
attractions.strollers.
One of the most kid friendly and adult enjoyableJust to the north in Yountville is Domaine Chandon, one
destinations is the Plaza in downtown Sonoma. Ifof Napa's original makers of sparkling wine. This is a
you're coming from San Francisco over the Goldenfavorite for groups and people with children because
Gate Bridge you'll be at this historic and charming placethe grounds are gracious and accommodating, with
in a little over half an hour. This is the 'Philadelphia oflawns, ponds and wildlife. Up on the patio, they offer
California', because it is the place where the Republicsnacks along with their elegant sparkling wines and the
of California declared its independence from Mexico.tables make it easier to keep everyone together. The
It is helpful to know that there are the counties ofspringtime tadpole explosion in the ponds will keep any
Sonoma and Napa, and the cities of Sonoma andchild entertained.
Napa.One of the most enjoyable family wineries is Francis
Even though Sonoma is a small city of about nineFord Coppola's Rubicon in Rutherford, about half way
thousand people, it is big on history. It is the only city inup the Napa Valley on Highway 29 (St. Helena
California that enjoys all three of these distinctions; itHighway). He took the historic Neibaum/Inglenook
was an official Pueblo, or city under Mexico, it was abuilding and surrounded it with gardens that have all of
Franciscan Mission (the twenty-first and final), and itthe graciousness of a southern Italian villa. The exhibits
was the military headquarters for the entire Westand old barrel rooms upstairs are enough to entertain
Coast under both Mexico and the United States.most children. During the summer they provide model
Around the Plaza, which is the largest in California,sailboats to send gliding on the fountain pool in front of
there are numerous historic sites as well as nicethe building. There is a small café, with outdoor
restaurants and shops. In the Plaza there are greatseating, a great gift shop and of course some
picnic tables near the playgrounds and the newlywonderful wines.
restored duck pond.Just to the north is the V. Sattui Winery which in this
The tourist bureau sits on the Plaza in an old Carnegiecontext is most valuable for their great deli offerings
Library building and it can provide additional informationand large picnic area. Napa does not have a lot of
for a great day with kids. A unique attraction calledpicnic areas. On a Saturday in season it can get busy,
Train Town is just two minutes back down Broadway,but finding food, wine and picnic tables all together
the road that led you to the Plaza. This is a smallcertainly makes the logistics of blending wineries with
old-style amusement park suitable for young childrenchildren much easier. The wineries have dramatically
up to approximately age ten. There is a small train tomore traffic on Saturdays than Sundays.
ride and a traditional merry-go-round and it harkensThe Wilds of Calistoga
back to a time before special effects were digital.For the San Francisco-based traveler, unfortunately,
There is even a petting zoo.two of the most interesting wineries for children are all
Around the Plaza are several winery tasting roomsthe way at the northern part of the valley, just south
where you can taste some excellent wines withoutof the 'old west' style town of Calistoga, which is a
spending all day getting there. Then you can nip backgreat, kid-friendly place to visit onto itself. These two
to the playground before moving on to the nextwineries are not suitable for infants in strollers, but for
winery. Five minutes from the Plaza is one of thechildren eight years and older they are a fun
Sonoma originals, the Sebastiani Family Winery, withexperience. First is Sterling Vineyards, famous for its
their great old barrel room, one of Sonoma's best giftaerial tramway that carries visitors to its hilltop winery.
shops and some very nice wines for you to sample.Many years ago it was the first large winery to
They also offer a trolley tour of Sonoma that explainscharge for their tastings. The price includes the tram
about its wonderful history. Just to the south of town isride. Between the tram, the gift shop and the tasting
the Larson Family Winery, on the old Sonoma Rodeoyou need to allow an hour and a half to enjoy the
site. This was where the champion race horseplace. Get there early to avoid the lines.
Seabiscuit stabled overnight when he was racing onJust across Highway 29 is one of the newest, large
the West Coast. It has a farm-like setting with llamaswineries in Napa, although it was built to look old. The
and sheep. Horse rides through the vineyards canCastello di Amorosa is built like an authentic castle,
arranged in advance, bocce courts and picnic areasfrom real stone and hand wrought iron. The vision, the
round out the experience.forty million dollars and thirteen years it took to build
From the Plaza you can head north on Route 12 upproduced a remarkable place. Children are restricted to
the Valley of the Moon, a scenic route. Votedthe early morning tours so you should check their
Sonoma's best tour, the Benziger Family Winery inwebsite for the schedule. The tour with tasting takes
Glen Ellen offers a wonderful mix of agriculture,about two hours. The admission for Rubicon, Sterling
education and fine wine. Their vineyards are tucked inand Castello di Amorosa all range between $20 and
a pretty little valley on Sonoma Mountain just down the$25, although they offer discounts for children and
road from Jack London's old ranch, now a park.young adults.
Their tour, aboard a tram attached to the back of aNapa gets hot in the summer, but very dry, so there
tractor, winds its way up into the vineyards whereare very few flying bugs. During the Winter it gets
they explain the biodynamic approach to agriculture, arainy, but not very cold. Both Spring and Fall are
remarkable system that is increasingly popular withgorgeous, and harvest time, from late August through
many high-end wineries. Next you visit the barrel cavesmid-November, is a very busy, exciting time in Wine
and finish up in the winery for a tasting. AdmittedlyCountry.
wineries are about adult enjoyment, but there areSmall, private wineries are often at people's homes, so
often children on the Benziger tour and they alwaysfor the collector, traveling with children, you should ask
seem to enjoy themselves.your potential hosts if children are welcomed. If you
Please don't make the mistake of bringing children towant to get to the smaller wineries with children,
trendy wineries where they have nothing of interestconsider hiring a guide with a car or SUV (avoid limos
for kids. They will spend the hour while you are tastingdue to the need to sit sideways or backwards which
wine bored with nothing to do. The wineries that areincreases the possibility of carsickness). While there
kid friendly have made a big effort to be so. At bothare limo services in San Francisco, many of the
the Sonoma Plaza and Benziger you'll find good picnicexperts live in Wine Country but they pick up clients in
tables, so pick up some sandwiches either at the Plazathe city. Hiring a driver greatly reduces the stress and
or at the Glen Ellen Market.increases the enjoyment. Explain that you have
Many of the wineries in the Valley of the Moon are kidchildren and ask them for a guide that is comfortable
friendly as long as you have an adult willing to keep anwith that. Some guides are parents and actually like
eye on them. The grounds are gracious and park-likechildren. For them it's something different and in fact
allowing for a little outdoor enjoyment in beautifulwe remember every tour we've ever done with kids.
surroundings. Some of those that come to mind areTouring with children is educational and a lot of fun, as
B.R. Cohn, Imagery, Landmark and St. Francis. Chateaulong as you go to wineries that they'll find interesting
St. Jean and Ledson Winery both have deli marketstoo. So enjoy your day with the kids in Wine Country.
and picnic tables on site. They are all within five miles